SO422 Nearshore Oceanography

Wave Tank Lab

Fall 2005

We will do the following:

• Groom the sand to have a smooth profile, and measure this starting profile.
• Run the wave generator, noting the frequency/period.
• Measure the profile at the following times: 2.5, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70 minutes.  Before stopping at each time measure the height of the waves where they break and in "deep" water.
• Fill in the data sheet.

 Observe the following:

• Which way does sand move?
• What happens to the heavy minerals we place?
• How do ripples form and how do they compare to the bar?
• Did we do anything that caused the bar to form?
• Does the profile come to equilibrium during the lab?

 Calculate the following:

• Are the waves deep, shallow, or intermediate?
• What is the deep water height of the waves?
• How steep is the beach when we start, and when we finish?
• How well does our H/D ratio predict where the waves break?