SO422 Nearshore Oceanography

Exam 2


    Wave tables.


Read all questions carefully.  The definitions should be a complete sentence that fully explains the term.   For the short answer questions insure that your answer is complete and concise, shows that you understand any terms used, and covers the key points.


Problems                    30  ________

5 definitions @4            20  ________

5 short answers @10         50  ________


TOTAL                      100  ________


Note that you must answer 5 of the definitions and 5 of the short answer questions.  Insure that you do not waste time answering more than the required number in each section.


1. Problems:


The following sand was collected at Duck, North Carolina:

Phi Size

Weight Percent




































(4) Calculate and clearly label the parameters (and only those parameters) that define the best fitting log-normal distribution for this sand.

 (4) How would changing each of these parameters affect your graph?

(4) Calculate the parameter that determines how well this sand fits the log-normal distribution, and compare that result with a graphical measure.

 (4) What is the size in mm of the median sand size?

 (4) What is the phi size of a grain that is 2.56 mm in diameter?



(10). Complete the survey notes below for the given scenario.   The rod person stands on Bench Mark 99 (elevation 3.00), and the instrument person is midway between BM99 and Turning Point 1 at x1.  The reading on the rod is 1.63. The rod person moves to TP1, and the new reading is 0.72. The rod person moves to TP2, and the new reading is 1.33.  The instrument person now moves to x2 midway between TP2 and BM00, and reads the rod as 0.65.  Finally the rod person moves to BM00, and the final reading of the rod is 2.27.  Note the sketch below which shows the relative horizontal positions of the different points.   Insure that on each line you have the correct ground elevation for that station.













































*BM99     x1        *TP1     *TP2       x2       *BM00


2.  Definitions: with a single complete sentence, define 5 of the following terms.

There are six short answer questions 3aŚ3f.  You must answer 5 of the 6.

3a. (Fig. 9-7) Discuss the coastal problem shown in this figure. Include the underlying natural process, the remedy, and the reasons for options A-D.

3b.  (Fig. 7-18)  Use this diagram to explain the relationship between beach slope, wave characteristics, and sediment size.  What is the dominant angle of attack for the wave climate here, and why do you say that?

3c.  (Figure 11-24)  This diagram shows three different beaches A--C.  Discuss how you would classify these beaches--the categories you would use, the reasons for them, and how these three beaches differ.

 3d.  The community of South Assateague Condos is having problems with coastal erosion.  Discuss what you would tell them about their options.

 3e.  (Figure 7-48) Discuss what this diagram shows, and why it is important for beaches.

 3f.  (Figure 11-11) Discuss what this diagram shows.  You should consider at least the morphology of the beach and the nearshore current system.